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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.